Stash Security

About 2 years ago I was in my local quilt shop The Scarlet Thread  and saw this display of cute little ready-to-color panels complete with pattern.  One of the panels was titled Inventory Control, but I prefer to call it Stash Security based on the cartoon caracters' t-shirt wording.  The panels are from the company Block Party Studios.

In the photo to the left, I have only just completed the top.  It is hanging where I will actually have it displayed from the mannequin arms.  I have yet to bind it.  I will upload more photos as I take them.

I chose not to use the pattern that came with the panel.  Instead, I used scraps from a bag I brought home from a retreat for the scrappy 2 1/2 inch unfinished inner border.  I drew my own stars to paper piece, the center of the star block is 2 1/2" unfinished.  The outer border is also 2 1/2 inch unfinshed.  

I ironed the center panel (which is black and white only... just like a coloring book) to Reynolds Freezer Paper to stabilize it for coloring.  I used regular 64 box of Crayola crayons... the harder you color the darker the color.  I also used fabric markers, sharpies and metallic sharpies/fabric pens.  All of these need to be heat-set with a layer of paper towels and your iron... the paper towels absorb the wax from the crayons.  I took my time ironing... making sure that I continued to iron until the paper towels came away free of color.

I cut the center squares from the accent piece that is part of the panel.  I chose to color the keys metallic and the fire alarms red and metallic.  What is nice is that the metallic does not come off on the iron when I ironed over them when pressing the paper pieced blocks and the completed top.  I used my old Rowenta Iron just in case, but I need not have worried.

I am having a hard time trying to decide whether or not and/or how to quilt the panel.  What I finally decided was to Iron it to Peltex, I want to use it as a sign, not a quilt.  I have yet to bind it.  But I am crazying piecing binding... just like I did fo rthe inner border.  I think it will look fun and interesting.

I will post a photo when the binding is on.

Lasagna Quilting

Okay, when I have to get a quilt done, like yesterday, this is the technique I use.
There are several “quilt-as-you-go” techniques, but I am lazy and adopted/adapted my own way to do things.

This technique can be used on traditionally pieced tops that you have not added the outer borders to yet. So if you are a topper and have scads of them done and need to quickly quilt one for a gift, this technique is for you. I will start is as if you have a bunch of blocks that need sashing. To assemble the blocks as illustrated below, measure the width and length of each row. For instance the first row of blocks are 12 ½” wide by 42 ½” long and the row of sashing is 3” wide by 42 ½ long.

If you are using a serger to quilt, then you are going to cut backing and batting 1 inch larger than those measurements. If you are going to use your sewing machine, then cut them the same size.

For the 4 rows of blocks with sashing and the 5 rows of sashing shown. You will cut:
4 each of Backing & Batting: 12 ½” x 42 ½ ”

3 each of backing &` batting: 3” x 42 ½”

Set these aside for the time being.

Serge or sew the rows to the sashing using a ¼”
seam allowance.

You will have a completed top sans the borders. On the left is the one I assembled with the sashing surrounding the blocks.

Serge the rows together using a 4-thread overlock stitch. The quilting is done in layers.

With the top facing up as shown in picture on the right, fold the first row of sashing back so right sides are together as shown below. Set this aside for a minute.

Now we start building our first lasagna layer to quilt as shown in the photo on the right:

• lay a 3” strip of batting


• then a 3” strip of backing right side facing up,


• next a 12 ½” row of backing right side facing down (so backing pieces lay right sides facing each other),


• next lay a 12 ½” row of batting and finally lay the top of the quilt is right side up with the sashing edge folded so right sides of blocks/sashing face each other and the serged edge is aligned with the layers of batting & backing.

Match all edges and pin to hold in place, see photo below.

Place pins with sharp point directed at seams edge as shown in photo >>>>>

Serge/sew using a 1/4” seam allowance the entire width of the quilt top.

Be careful not to serge through your pins!

Flip open and unfold the layers smoothing out the wrinkles, see photo below.

You now have one section “quilted”. Now we’ll make another batch of lasagna in the same pan:

First, fold back the next sashing strip of the quilt top and align the edge to be sewn, set aside for a second. Now, on the table, lay a strip of 3” wide batting, then 3” backing so the right side is facing up, next lay the assembled lasagna with the backing right side facing the right side of the three inch backing strip. See photo below, then serge/sew and press.

Repeat steps 2 - 5 for each row of blocks and sashing until all rows are sewn/quilted.

Next take your quilt to your machine and stitch in the ditch along the verticle seams pulling the seams taute to prevent puckers..

To add borders, cut batting and backing 1” larger than borders you are going to add, and then repeat the lasagna quilting process for each border section. Press both top and bottom of the quilt, square and trim edges then sew on binding.

Voila! You are done!

Note: Just as you test your tensions with your sewing machine, try a 6 layer test serge with scrap fabrics & batting of similar weight and texture. Check your seam allowance before starting. The reason for the 4-thread serging is that with most machines the two needles in place just make a ¼ inch seam with your cutting blade engaged. Serging also helps compress the batting making it less bulky. I prefer to use poly batting when using this technique. But cotton works just as well.

Enjoy!

Here are some links to various quilt as you go type websites. Most of these are way too time consuming and some expect you to do hand work! Not when I am in in hurry! There are scads more sites than listed below, but these I consider to be better than most!

http://welshquilter.blogspot.com/2008/02/quilt-as-you-go.html
http://www.treadleon.net/quiltshop/joiningblocks/joining.html
http://www.quilterscache.com/H/howtoquiltoneatatime.html
http://auntiesquaintquilts.blogspot.com/2008/07/quilt-as-you-go-log-cabin.html
http://www.sewvac1.com/Library/serger_baby_quilt.htm
http://lindaleeoriginals.com/easypieces.htm This one is very nice, simple, clear instructions.

Longarm Midarm Machine Quilting Ramblings

OMG, I am sick as a dog, and punchy. I have a humongous cloud of quilts (puffy and bright mind you) hovering over my sewing room and thoughts. So having tired of working on the compatibility issues I have with my web design software and Vista.... I started thinking of all the projects I should be working on, pies I should be baking and quilts I should be quilting. I recently purchased an 18" industrial strength-quilting machine. This machine is predecessor to the HQ16 and a plethora of other midarm competitors. My machine weights in at about 80 pounds and is as smooth as butter to run. It doesn't rattle and clang like the HQ16 that I test-drove while on vacation in Melbourne, Florida. Oh BTW the little quilt shop on Wickam Road in Melbourne is very nice, dynamic, with lots of fabric, threads, notions and machines! Not only that, but the people are very very friendly, knowledgeable and if they didn't know, they made a call to find out!
So I have this machine that is sitting on an adequate frame at the moment. I purchased it from an acquaintance that was looking to find a new home for it. She had injured her shoulder and it has become to hard for her to make use of. Plus, lets face it; it is easier to just give it to a professional quilter. Back to the frame, I decided I really have to buy the Hinterberg frame after having a gander at it in Florida. OMG... night and day difference, plus I don't have to upgrade anything for the 18" machine. With the frame I currently have I would have to upgrade it, so even though I like the Grace Quilt Frame and even used it with my home machine as well as the 18" machine.... I want to have the full capacity of the 18". The Grace frames with the exception of the Pinnacle only have a nine-inch movement. So if any of you out there need a good frame with lots of extras for your home machine or the 9" throat Juki, I have one for you! Lets make a deal! If you live anywhere near Buffalo, Rochester or Syracuse, NY (including Auburn, Corning etc...) I have a frame for you! LOL The only reason I want the Hinterberg is because it breaks down quickly and efficiently, and to get the same quality of machine in the Grace I have to go Pinnacle and that doesn't break down. Not that I would break it down, but we are talking form, function and fiscal retention. The Hinterberg Stretch is quite a bit less $$ than the Grace Pinnacle. So, Now that I have a machine-quilting set-up. I have loaded and quilted three quilt tops... and have several to go. I will upload photos later. The three I quilted were just comfort quilts to donate through the Webster Quilt Guild and the Genesee Valley Quilt Club. I am having fun playing with the machine, which is a Nu-Style 18" machine. I love it; it is a simple quality machine. It is very old but has a great stitch when I load the bobbin correctly. LOL I purchased one Longarm Quilt Book so far, lots of templates but just one book. ABC's of Longarm Quilting by Patricia C. Barry. I am not overly impressed with the book. It is extremely vague on some things, and specific to Gammills on other things. There are a few patterns in the book to kick-start the machine quilting experience but nothing exciting. The book is pretty much just an overview of longarm quilting.... ho-hum kind of book. Check it out from the library, as there are a couple of pointers in it. But otherwise... just go on line and join a longarm or machine specific forum or group. You will learn more there.